Nankatai- Biscuits from the subcontinent

In the light of the  government's  decision to import wheat this year, it becomes even more apparent that the Ministry of Agriculture is spending far more on promoting horticulture with an eye to increasing exports, than on the cultivation of grain, on which the majority of our population depends for its daily bread. Even in the 17th century, Bernier, in his book of  Travels (1656-1668) writes "... wheat is cultivated in sufficient quantity for the consumption of the country, and for the making of excellent and cheap sea-biscuits, with which the crews of the European ships, English, Dutch and Portuguese are supplied."

So besides chapathi and naan and other roti for local consumption, there was even enough surplus wheat to make biscuits. Though biscuits were imported from Huntley and Palmers since 1847,  desi biscuits were  being made in tandoor ovens. So-called "Hindu biscuits" (actually western style biscuits made of a hard dough) became popular when marketed by Gupta and Company in the late 19th century. The Guptas were later to become the first directors of the Brittania Biscuit Company in 1918, still the largest manufacturers of biscuits in India today.*

During the swadeshi movement, in the drive to become self-reliant, teashops began to add biscuits to their limited menu. The familiar large glass jars with biscuits can still be found in most teashops today.

One of the best and tastiest biscuits made by local bakeries is the nankhatai , supposed to have originated in Surat, from where they are still brought to Bombay. It is a powdery and perfectly shaped little half-circle, wrapped in tissue paper and tied at both ends like a bon-bon to protect it from crumbling.

Naaz bakery in Pune makes a good version , even though they are a bit large. As usual I have a reliable recipe for the biscuit so if you can't get hold of one and you miss dipping your nankhatai in chai try this:

Nankhatai

Ingredients

• 1 cup maida
• 1 tsp baking powder
• 1/4 tsp vanilla essence
• 1/2 cup ghee (clarified butter)
• 1/2 cup castor sugar
• 2 tsps chopped cashews
• (1 tsp cardamom powder)
• (1/4 tsp saffron soak in 1 tbsp hot water)

Seive flour and baking powder together. Add vanilla essence.Mix ghee and sugar till creamy. Add the flour mixture,the saffron and cardomom . Knead well and make into small balls. Flatten and place on greased tray. Dip a fingertip in water and dab on the centre of each ball of dough. Now press a few cashewnut bits on top of each circle of dough.

Bake in oven till cooked for about 20-25 mins at 375 deg.

*A.P Chanda, A Biscuit Named Britannia, Pub. Bangalore 1983.

Comments

[Sumitha Shibu]

Wow it looks very yummy,feel like picking one and taking a bite!Definetly have to try it.

[Krithika]

Bakeries in Pune sell amazing stuff (hubby is from Pune). Your nankhatai looks 'melting in the mouth'. Thank you so much for this recipe. I am off tomorrow. I am going to try this. Do you know how to make Shrewsbury biscuits at home ?

[Janani]

Hi DHL: Wonderful. Have experimented with making the bangalore iyengar bakery "benne biscuit" and have had some limited success...but this looks like the real McCoy. Thanks!!I plan to tinker with your recipe and make a savoury version.

Ques: when you say castor sugar, do you mean the typical crystal like indian sugar or the fine confectioner's /icing sugar?

Thanks

[deccanheffalump]

Janani by castor sugar I mean plain powdered sugar not confectioners/icing sugar.
Krithika I have a recipe for Shrewsbury biscuits on http://thecookscottage.typepad.com/curry/2005/10/_kayani_ki_kaha.html.
Thanks Sumithu let me know how it turned out.

[Puspha]

They look lovely!!!!

[krithika]

Hey. I tried your nankhatai. It was simply great. I am planning to do a post on it.

[Anamika]

Hello,
I tried this recipe and it came out far from satisfactory, in fact downright disappointing. While the baking time mentioned was 20-25min, like most cookies mine were (well) done in about 12-13min and the edges began to bur in 15min.

The taste of saffron was overpowering. The quantity of saffron is probably tad too much and I made the miskate of adding the saffron water along with undissolved threads. Should have strained them out as on baking the threads taste almost bitter.

The texture of the nankhatai was quite tough as compared to the authentic ones. Not soft crunchy , meltingly crumble when you bite. Definetely more grainy and tough.

Disappointing results. Might not try this recipe again.
Anamika

[Nandita]

Hi DHL,
Will making this into a savoury recipe- using salt and zeera/ saunf instead sugar and saffron alter the end result??

I liked the history bit-and want to try nankhatai out!

[Kushal]

You don't think a nice, hot soup like recipe would be good in this weather? Since things are a bit damp in Bombay?

[deccanheffalump]

Thanks for all the feedback.
Kushal since the nankhatai has had uneven results all round I'll take your suggestion and post a soup next.We are in a bit of a soup as it is on this side of the country anyhow.

[Annita]

Ooh..I can't wait to try it..Looks Awesome...!!

[Ekta Sachdev]

Hi...the recipe looks yummy. will definitely try it. one question - how can i add dry-fruit? eg: almonds, khus khus. am planning to gift them to my friends for diwali, hence would like to make it a bit richer. Thank you!