Back to Bogmalo

Even as we drove the short distance from the airport to Bogmalo I could feel myself relaxing. Memories of the last visit here were enough to do that. Within ten minutes, unpacked and sipping a cup of nice hot tea made by Mrs Rodrigues, the landlady and I am now already to forget the world beyond the village.

The pigs wandered in the scrubby back yard, and the chickens were running around.A pleasant smell of dry burning coconut shells scented the air and wisps of smoke crept over the red tiled huts.As dusk gathered, I could see the toddy tappers perched high in the surrounding coconut trees gathering the day's yield in their black pots.Some were already nimbly climbing down and wending their way along the darkening village road to fill the large vat at the local toddy maker.

Everything was winding down from slow to slower and I was already looking forward to dinner at John's, a shack on the beach where the owner, John, of course, has become famous for his food among the locals on this side of Goa.

People come all the way from Vasco for both lunch and dinner and he remains a firm favourite with many regulars.Sitting out at small tables placed on the sand many of the clients are Goan families, or groups of people from local offices out for the evening.

It is not too hot right now and a cool breeze came in from the sea. Groups of people were still wandering on the beach in the dark and kids were playing .You know you are in Goa when you see kids are playing , not cricket but football. That seems to come with their Portuguese history and young people follow Real Madrid with a passion usually reserved, in the rest of India, for Tendulkar and Co.
It was Karaoke night at Johns and strains of the Eagles, Abba and many '70's tunes filled the air.We sat down and ordered the usual....ice cold Kingfisher beer and Chilli Calamari . The service is leisurely and we had a slow and super dinner.

Here is a recipe for Chilli Calamari.

Ingredients:
2 small squid about 8" long, cleaned and washed.
5 dried red chillies
12 cloves of garlic finely chopped.
3 teaspoons olive or vegetable oil.
Salt
Pepper

Slice the squid into circles of about 1/2 thick. Heat the oil and fry the red chillies and garlic till light brown. Add squid and saute for about 7 minutes till opaque. Add salt and pepper to taste. This tastes wonderful with cold beer on a hot day.

Comments

[Jules]

I like this description so much. Sounds just the place I'd like to be with the pigs and the chickens. I'm trying to imagine the smell of coconut husks burning.
The recipe sounds interesting too and at least for this one I will be able to find all the ingredients.
Hope you and Uma have a wonderful time.
Enjoy yourselves!

["D]

hello!

Sounds like you and Uma r hving fun lots and lots...Papa and i are here figuring out which menu card to order from next!! Haha~!

Next will be my turn to go to Goa... and then il do the same..;) show u wht im eating!! ;)

yenjoy~! *hic*

[Nupur]

I ate at John's just a few months ago! Loved it!

[Shilpa Paralkar]

Hi, I stumbled upon your entry for Mrs. Rodrigues' place while searching on the internet for a nice, quiet place in bogmalo village. Can you tell me a bit more about this place (hygiene/water/loo) and do you by chance still have the contact number?

Many regards,
Shilpa